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Dean's Automotive Repair
650 961-0302
2037 Old Middlefield Way · Mountain View, CA 94043
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Q: The check engine warning light is on in my car. I was told that I need to pay in order to find out why it is on and what is needed to shut it off, but I have seen ads where shops say they will do it for free. What is the difference, and why would I need to pay for this?
A: This service can only be performed correctly if the shop has invested in the right equipment, the right software and trained technicians with access to the right information to determine the cause of a warning light. The equipment and software must be updated every year, and that is done at a great expense to the shop owner. The technicians must go through training, at least 40 hours per year, in order to have the knowledge required to interpret the information accumulated from the diagnostic equipment. The information is available at an ongoing expense paid by the shop to manufacturers, on call services, and after market online services. The only information provided by the vehicle’s control unit is an error code with a definition, and this error code only points to a vehicle’s particular system. The technician must then determine what component or components within the system have malfunctioned. The repair can only take place after this step is accomplished. Anyone without the knowledge and equipment is just guessing at the correct repair. The danger of this guesswork is that if the cause of the warning light is not repaired correctly, additional damage may occur to other components in the vehicle.
So, make sure that the facility you take your vehicle to for this type of repair has the ability to do it correctly. If the first step in the process (determining why the light came on) is not being charged for, it usually means that there has been no investment in the correct equipment, software or training, and the outcome of any subsequent repair may not be what you expect.
A: There is no official definition of what a brake repair should involve. This means that every repair shop you call will be giving you a price estimate on a different repair procedure, based on their own definition, performed by different levels of qualified employees, and using different levels of quality parts. Without inspecting the brake system of your vehicle first, repair shops have no true way of knowing what will be needed to accomplish the repairs. It would only be a guess, and potentially an incorrect one at that.
The brake inspection should consist of:
1. A road test to check brake operation
2. A wheels-off inspection to measure brake rotor thickness. Every brake rotor has a spec for thickness to ensure safe operation. When they are outside this measurement, they cannot be used.
3. Measuring the thickness of the brake material to determine if it is above a minimum thickness. The brake pads not only provide the necessary friction, but also help dissipate heat. If pads are too thin, they cannot perform these two important functions.
4. Inspecting the brake calipers for damage such as torn dust boots, sticking pistons, etc. If the brake calipers are not performing as designed, they will not allow enough force to be applied to the brake pads to stop the vehicle.
At a minimum, a brake repair should consist of cleaning, inspecting and lubricating the brake hardware and components. In most cases, this would also include machining brake drums and rotors. It is important to understand that the foregoing procedures are not performed with most “cheap” brake services, and are probably the most critical to be done. Lastly, the brake repair should include installation of new brake materials that meet or exceed the original design specifications.
The quality of parts used is another important aspect of the brake repair to be considered. There are lower-cost brake rotors and drums out there that are made of low-quality metal and improperly heat treated. If inferior quality components are used, they will not allow the vehicle’s brakes to operate within the design criteria. Stopping distance increases. For example, if a vehicle is designed to go from 60 mph to 0 mph in 230 feet, with low quality parts that distance can increase to 280 feet or more. This could mean the difference between no accident and a serious injury accident.
A correctly performed brake repair should do what is needed to allow the brakes to perform as they were designed. A “cheap” brake repair (one not done correctly or done with low-quality parts -- or both) may result in your vehicle not being able to stop in time to avoid an accident.
In short, deciding where to get your brakes repaired should not be based solely on the cost. Remember, it is important to have a brake inspection performed first, in order to receive a realistic estimate for the correct repair. For such an important and potentially life-saving procedure, it is best to stick with a shop you know and trust.
Q: My vehicle’s air conditioning is not keeping the interior as cool as it did last year. Should I just have more refrigerant put into the system?
A: No. There are many reasons why the air conditioner may not be working correctly.
For one, temperature controls may not be functioning as they should, which has nothing to do with the system charge (refrigerant level). If the system charge is low, there is most likely a leak somewhere in the system. This leak allows air and moisture to get into the system as well as loss of refrigerant. If the cause of the leak is not repaired and the air and moisture are not purged from the system, the refrigerant will mix with the moisture and create hydrochloric acid. This acid will deteriorate the components of the system from the inside out.
If your air conditioning system is not performing correctly, it is important to have it examined by a professional with the correct equipment to both diagnose and repair the system defect. The most critical piece of equipment that is required is a refrigerant identifier. There are only two types of refrigerant that should be in an automobile’s A/C system: R-12 or R-134A. If anything else is put into the system, it is considered contaminated and must be removed from the system and handled as contaminated waste. As an example, if your system is using R-12 and another type of refrigerant is added, there is the potential for serious damage to your vehicle.
There is also equipment needed to check the operation of the A/C system that is dedicated to either R-12 or R-134A, as well as equipment that checks for external leakage of the refrigerant and finds the source of the leak.
Be aware that many quick lubes and repair facilities may be putting the wrong refrigerant into automotive A/C systems because of a lack of knowledge, training, or correct equipment, so don’t hesitate to ask if a shop is using the correct equipment before they work on your vehicle.
Q: I’m in the market for a new car and at one dealership I was told that I am required to bring the car back to the dealer for all maintenance and repairs or my manufacturer’s warranty will be voided. Is this true?
A: In one word NO! It is actually prohibited by Federal Law for a new car dealer to either deny warranty service or even imply that warranty service will be voided if servicing or repairs are not performed at the dealership.
The law is the Magnuson-Moss Act of 1975, Title 15, Chapter 50, Section 2301-2312. Look it up for yourself!
A complete version of the Magnuson Moss Act can be found at www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/buspubs/warranty.htm. A Google Search on the Magnuson-Moss Act will also bring up many Web sites that explain this Federal Code in less “legal speak”.
The new car owner manuals also tell you that your vehicle’s maintenance, replacement or repair of the emission control devices, etc. may be performed by any automotive repair establishment or individual without invalidating the manufacturers’ warranty. Look under Vehicle Maintenance and Care, Maintenance Providers, Where to Go for Service and Replacement Parts, just to name a few areas in the manuals where you will find this confirmed.
For example: under Replacement Parts it says “Warranty coverage is not dependent upon the use of any particular brand of replacement parts.”
Or, under Maintenance: “When maintenance and repairs are paid for by you, these services may be performed by you or by any automotive service provider you choose.”
Have you ever wondered how well a vehicle is being serviced at a facility whose primary purpose is to sell you a new car every 3 – 5 years? You may prefer a service provider that wants to develop a long-term relationship with you and help your vehicle stay healthy for 10 years or more.
The next time you are told that a new car has to be serviced at the dealer or the warranty will be void, mention the Magnuson-Moss Act (1975), and say “It just isn’t so!”
Q: I have been told that my vehicle should have new shock absorbers installed. My “baby” has about 60,000 miles on her, and she seems to drive just fine. Do I really need new shock absorbers? If so, why?
A: In most cases, by the time a vehicle has 50 – 60,000 miles on it, the shocks (or shock absorbers/shock struts) have deteriorated to the point that new shocks will have a noticeable, positive effect on the vehicle’s ride and control.
Your vehicle’s shocks play a major role in you being able to control your vehicle. Shocks that are in need of replacement can result in the following:
1. Body roll (side to side movement) which adversely impacts handling and control.
2. Loss of traction, which increases stopping distance and negatively affects control and acceleration.
3. Tire cupping/uneven tire wear, which shortens the life and performance of the tires, and can cause road noise.
4. Nose dive when brakes are applied, which increases stopping distance, negatively affects control, and can result in premature front brake wear.
5. Bottoming out going over bumps, which negatively affects vehicle handling and control, resulting in premature wear of the suspension components.
6. Acceleration squat (the rear of vehicle drops upon acceleration), which adversely affects traction, and vehicle handling and control.
This wear on your shocks happens so gradually that you may not notice until the
shocks are worn so much, the vehicle can be dangerous to drive. About 86% of vehicles in the wrecking yards still have their original shocks, and most were candidates for replacement shocks at least once. If you do not want your “baby” to end up in the wrecking yard before its time, I would encourage you to have new shocks installed at your current mileage.
Warren McCord, Owner/ASE Certified Master Technician
Dean’s Automotive, Inc.
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